Gdańsk Cycling Tour

Arrive in Gdańsk. Gdańsk is a maritime gem situated on the confluence of the Motława and Vistula Rivers. With over a 1000 years of rich history, and a vibrant culture, it is now known its picturesque Old Town which is characterised by colorful facades, cobblestone streets, and the iconic Neptune Fountain. Finding a hotel that provides easy access to the city’s unique blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture plus the medieval Gdańsk Crane and the bustling Long Market.

On Sunday morning, after a relaxing ferry ride across the Gulf of Gdańsk, we arrive in the Kashubian town of Hel which is lcated on the Hel Peninsula: a narrow sliver of sand which stretches some 35kms west towards the beachside hamlet of Wladyslawowo. We’ll start cycling in Hel itself, and begin winding our way along this scenic spit (100m at its narrowest), on separated bike paths, we pass through the beachside villages of Jastarnia and Chalupy with the Gulf of Gdańsk (filled with kite surfers and windsurfers) on our left and the Baltic Sea on our right (filled with holidaying beachgoers, colourful umbrellas, and beach towels).

The sea breeze will be at your back, the scent of the sea will fill your senses, and the sound of lapping waves will lull you into relaxation on the first day of your adventure. After an easy day of pedaling, we steer south-west and follow Route 10/13 of EuroVelo to our palatial 13th century accommodation in the enchanting town of Krokowa.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 60km (38mi)
Elevation Gained: 246m (810ft)
Activity Hours: 3.5-4.0
Arrive in Meals Included: Dinner

After contemplating the complicated history of the von Krockow family – and the estate on which the castle and the village resides – we ride in a southerly direction in the morning light filtered by the trees of the Bielawa Nature reserve (keep an eye out for cranes, sandpipers, short-eared owls, and the golden eagle) and navigate past the rippling surface of Lake Zarnowieckie. We arc around the bottom of the lake and spend a short while exploring the “Zagroda Gburska i Rybacka w Nadoluan” open air museum which has preserved the 19th century homestead, well, cellar, apiary, and smokehouse.

Following quiet and peaceful roads lined with Poplars, the cultural region of the Kashubian people unfolds before us and as we enter Salino, the topaz coloured Salino Lake appears on our right. We continue riding across the Polanowska Plateau until we descend to the left bank of the Leba Glacial Valley and the village of Godętowo (first mentioned in 1284). The historical splendour of the Godętowo Palace and its regal surroundings welcomes us tonight as Day 2 of an epic journey across timeless terrain fades into twilight.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 54km (34mi)
Elevation Gained: 388m (1273ft)
Activity Hours: 3.0-3.5
Meals Included: Breakfast & Dinner

Waking refreshed from a deep slumber in cozy beds and energised from a hearty breakfast we head Southwest to Lębork, a small town which was first founded by the Order of the Teutonic Knights. Geographically we are in the Kashubian Lake District but historically we are firmly in the medieval lands of the Teutonic Knights and traces of their existence are scattered throughout. Once such trace is the historic castle and Gothic masterpiece built by the Teutonic Knights in the mid-14th century (now the District Court). Despite numerous renovations spanning from the 16th to the 20th century, the castle retains its historical essence, with the original Gothic eastern gable, cellars, shooting ranges, the castle mill, and a portion of the perimeter wall still standing.

Lębork is also one of the few cities in Pomerania that has well-preserved medieval defensive walls. Originally built in 1341, and completed in 1363, their total length exceeded 1,220 meters. The fortifications had 32 towers and half-towers, including corner towers, two gates: to Gdańsk and to Słupsk. The castle is a captivating narrative of European history and invites us to step back in time and explore its storied past. 

The serpentine roads are rolling and scenic today as we weave our way through flat open farmlands past palaces that have seen better days, a couple of 18th Century Dutch windmills, and the sleep village of Sasino with it’s faithfully renovated Palace. We are close to the Baltic Sea here, and if we have the time and inclination, there is an optional side trip to the Stilo Lighthouse which upon ascending 33m to its top, rewards us with sweeping views over the yew, beech, brich, and pine forest before expanding out into a glistening vista of the sea itself.

Post lunch, we roll our tyres along serene, tree-lined country roads, where the peace is accentuated by the gentle rustle of leaves and the rhythmic whir of your wheels. It’s a tranquil return route to the Palace in Godętowo, through a picturesque landscape enveloped in fresh air and dappled in filtered sunlight, where the Chef has expertly combined traditional Polish flavors and contemporary culinary techniques for another memorable dining experience.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 72km (45mi)
Elevation Gained: 411m (1350ft)
Activity Hours: 3.5-4.0
Meals Included: Breakfast & Dinner

Well rested and re-energised we start early and head towards Kartuzy, the heartland of the Kashubian cultural region. Expansive fields of wheat and canola initially greet us until the road leads us into a rolling post-glacial landscape interspersed with over 200 deep cold lakes. The Kashubian Lake District is renowned for its breathtaking landscape, but it also boasts significant cultural and spiritual landmarks, notably the Sanctuary of the Queen of Kashubia in Sianówo. The Sanctuary, and the Queen of Kashubia religious icon, are revered as they embody the spiritual heritage and identity of the Kashubian people.

After an optional picnic by Lake Sianówskie, we continue to cruise past the glacial channels, flowing rivers, and melt lakes that make up the Kashubia Protected Landscape Area. Following the contours of the hills, we glide by Lake Klasztorne Duze and glimpse the unique coffin shaped roof amd barqoue dome of the church across the topaz coloured surface. We’ve arrived and we’ll find a cozy cafe in the delightfully attractive town square in Kartuzy (for a well-deserved cake and coffee) and soak up the charming ambiance of the colourful tenement houses built atop the storied cobbles.

With a sense of accomplishment we retire for the night in one of the most inviting hotels in the region and reflect on how today’s ride has offered a unique glimpse into the Kashubia that few people experience: where nature, architecture, and spirituality intertwine with the sheer joy of gently turning pedals.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 45km (28mi)
Elevation Gained: 554m (1820ft)
Activity Hours: 3.5-4.0
Meals Included: Breakfast & Dinner

The town of Kartuzy is a special highlight of your cycling trip. A late neolithic settlement since 7000 BC, home to the Lusations in 1300 BC, site of a Carthusian Monastery in the 14th Century, and Wehrmacht occupied in 1939, Kartuzy has seen it’s fair share of tumultuous history and will undoubtedly captivate you with its Gothic charm and its off-the-beaten track character.

Having survived WWII largely intact (only the train station was destroyed), Kartuzy has preserved its medieval spatial layout and is overlooked by the Hermitage, a former brewery, the refectory, and the thought provoking Collegiate Church of St. Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. We visit the church of the very strict Carthusian Order (the only one in Poland) first thing in the morning. It features a unique coffin-shaped roof and a Baroque tower dome, both dating back to the period of 1731–1733. Inside, it houses an array of precious furnishings spanning from the 15th to the 18th centuries. Notable among these are a Gothic altar crafted in 1444, the opulent Baroque stalls created in 1641 and 1677, and the presbytery walls adorned with a Flemish tapestry from 1683. It is absolutely monumental and provides a singular experience as suspended just above the entrance, in the vestibule, is a figure of a scythe wielding angel of death, which gracefully swings as a reminder of the passing of each precious moment on this mortal coil.

Next, we roll to the Kashubian Museum to view an exquisite display – over two floors – that captures the essence of Kashubian culture and showcases remarkable examples of traditional folk art, authentic local attire, agricultural and fishing tools, weaving looms, and intricate wickerwork. It’s a charming stop with a quaint shop that offers a variety of traditional handicrafts.

Departing from Kartuzy in the mid-morning, our 57km cycling journey to Żukczyn is a leisurely adventure, winding through the serene Radunia River valley. Today’s route is characterised by peaceful farmlands, quaint country lanes, and several beautiful lakes which offer a tranquil escape into the picturesque Kashubian countryside.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 57km (35mi)
Elevation Gained: 467m (1532ft)
Activity Hours: 3.5-4.0
Meals Included: Breakfast & Dinner

Friday marks another astonishing day as we leave the Mill in Żukczyn and head across the Vistual River via the bridge in Tczew and towards the majesty of the UNSECO listed Malbork Castle. As we descend from Żukczyn to Malbork, passing through Tczew, we are immersed in the picturesque diversity of Poland’s landscape. We’re greeted by the expansive fields and horizon views as our route winds through charming rural vsettings, dotted with traditional Polish farmhouses before we arrive in the historic town of Tczew.

Tczew’s rich cultural heritage is visible in the geographical and architectural landmarks that whisper stories tracing all the way back to 1198. For example (over a 56 year period), the city belonged to Poland after the Battle of Grunwald (1410), then after the First Peace of Toruń it was incorporated into Teutonic state, in 1440 it joined the Prussian Confederation, during the Thirteen Years’ War (1454-1466) it changed hands and population multiple times, and then finally in 1466 it came under the control of Poland after the Second Peace of Toruń in 1466, it was once again incorporated into Poland! Importantly, this is when the city regained its Vistula character and transformed into a grain, merchant, and craft center. Over and above its long and varied history, Tczew is perhaps most famous for the bridge across the Vistula which is an engineering marvel of the 19th century (once the longest in Europe) but also a symbol of the town’s resilience, having been partially destroyed by Polish sappers (in advance of the Wehrmacht Army in 1939) and rebuilt many times throughout the years.

We stop for a break in the town’s Market Square which surrounded by highlights such as the Parish Church of the Holy Cross with a Baroque interior from the 13th century, the Post-Dominican Church of Saint Stanislaus Kostka from the 14th century, a Dutch style windmill from 1806, and a Water Tower builtin 1905.  The Rynek is alos lined with colourful tenement buildings and beckons us with its relaxed atmosphere that reminds us to appreciate a slower pace of life.

Continuing our journey towards Malbork, famous for its impressive UNESCO World Heritage listed Teutonic Knights castle, we ride through flat alluvial farmlands and along the serene banks of the Vistula River. The tranquil ambiance of our route this afternoon culminates in a magnificent view of Europe’s largest Gothic fortress which what was once the seat of the Teutonic Order, from the opposite bank of the Nogat River. We spend some time exploring the multiple layers of its external defensive walls, a labyrinth of rooms and chambers, and some exquisite architectural detail and decoration as the late afternoon sun lights up the 600 year old red brickwork.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 60km (38mi)
Elevation Gained: 235m (770ft)
Activity Hours: 3.5-4.0
Meals Included: Breakfast & Dinner

We’ve spent 7 wonderful days exploring the charm, character, and attractions of the Pomeranian region by bicycle. But before we go, a tour of the monumental Castle of the Teutonic Order awaits. Originally named Marienburg (in honour of Mary, the mother of Jesus) by a German Catholic religious order of crusaders, it’s a Ordensburg fortress that was built to suppress the Great Prussian Uprising of the area’s Baltic tribes. Consisting of three distinct castles (high, middle, and lower), numerous layers of defensive walls, and a multitude of moats and towers, the tour is not to be missed. The wealth of must-see attractions includes the stunning Gothic architecture of the convent building, the exquisite collection of amber artifacts in the Amber Museum, and the beautifully preserved St. Mary’s Church with its impressive stained glass. Additionally, the Knights’ Hall, once the center of ceremonial life in the castle, stands as a testament to the original purpose of Malbork Castle.

Leaving the magnificence of Malbork behind, we cycle north after an early lunch, returning to Gdańsk and the Baltic Sea. It’s been a wonderful loop of Pomerania and I can’t stress enough that our journey contained some of the most underrated cycling in Europe that you’ll ever experience. Since joining the EU in 2004, Poland has, and continues to, undergo a massive transformation and from the historic maritime charm of Gdańsk to the majestic Malbork Castle, our holiday was a beautiful blend of natural scenery, medieval architecture, and rich history. The bustling streets of Gdańsk were replete with colorful  tenement houses, the Hel Peninsula dazzled with its sandy serene landscapes, and the post-glacial lakes of the rolling Kashubian countryside were out steadfast companions. Our accommodations were a mix of historical elegance and modern comfort, ranging from cozy local hotels to grand palaces, each with their own unique story. This cycling tour wasn’t just about the cycling; it was an immersive experience into Poland’s social and cultural heritage where each pedal stroke brought us closer to the heart of this beautiful country.

Come along for the ride and experience how Poland, with her beauty and her charisma, is melding her poignant past with an exhilarating present and an undeniably remarkable future.

Ride Details:
Distance Cycled: 80km (28mi)
Elevation Gained: 275m (902ft)
Activity Hours: 4.0-4.5
Meals Included: Breakfast